Not sure how well it would work for skin tight suits like superman, but I can totally see this helping with the shaping for looser garments. I think much like taking a paper pep and changing it to suit EVA foam, you would have to do the same when translating to fabric. (especially non-stretch fabrics) Al you'd need to do is create a 3D model of the costume, unfold and scale it and we could take pattern grading to a whole new level.ĭoes anyone have the time/skills to run any experiments on this? I feel like it has the potential to bring pattern making into the 21st century. The same could be done with almost any fabric costume. Print it out and tape it up, lay it over some blue spandex, and BOOM, perfectly sized Superman costume. Then cut off the head and hands, load it into the Pepakura program, and unfold it as if it's foam.
Here's where the idea started: You could create a low poly model of a person, scaling it to fit your proportions. What if you could apply the same techniques to create patterns for fabric costumes? We all know that Pepakura is great for converting 3D shapes into planar surfaces.but why just use it for paper, foam, or cardboard. For pieces like the chest, you obviously only need one in the end.Īlso, sorry for the late response.Here's an idea I've been kicking around in the back of my head for a while now, I just know I don't have the time or skills to try it out properly, so I decided to offer it up here to see what you guys made of it. You can flip over the template and reuse it to make a symmetrical second armor piece. I would like to point out that whole parts like the gauntlet, shoe, shin, thigh, bicep, handplate, shoulder and maybe some others only appear once in the template. Like this: b -> d It's a mirror image of the original. It just means to trace it on one side then turn the template over and use it on the opposite side to make another trace on the foam. I admit the "Flip x2" is a little confusing. Some of the edges will get cut off if you use anything other than US Letter, but honestly as long as you have the basic shape, you can guess the bit that gets cut off. I used US Letter sized paper for mine, but you could probably use a4 just make sure to use the original image size when you print and don't convert it to a4 or it will shrink the template to fit the different paper.
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